The largest gathering of humankind in history, a celebration that can be witnessed from space, and an event that will only repeat after 144 years – the superlatives associated with the ongoing Prayagraj Kumbh Mela in the northern Indian city are many. At the heart of it, though, the 2025 Prayagraj Kumbh Mela remains an intensely moving experience, attracting a cross-section of visitors from the devout to the curious.
From Legend to Present Day
Associated with the story of the Samudra Manthan, four drops are said to have fallen on Earth when the Gods and the devils churned a pot filled with the elixir of immortality. The spots where these drops fell – Prayagraj, Haridwar, Nashik, and Ujjain – are the sites that host the Kumbh Mela, governed by the astrological positions of the sun, moon, and Jupiter. Of these, the Kumbh in Prayagraj is considered to be the most sacred since it lies at the sangam (meeting point) of the Ganga, Yamuna, and the legendary Saraswati. Bathing in the confluence of these rivers is said to absolve one of sins, even more so this year because of favourable celestial positions. A Maha Kumbh occurs only after 12 Purna Kumbhs, which themselves happen only once in 12 years – meaning the next Maha Kumbh Mela after 2025 shall take place only in 2169 CE!
Progressively increasing in size with each celebration, the Kumbh Mela this year is expected to receive a staggering 400 million (40 crore) visitors over seven weeks. To cater to these numbers, an entire temporary city spanning close to 10,000 acres is erected on the banks of the river, complete with gridded streets and numbered sectors, over 30 floating pontoon bridges, campsites that are mini townships in themselves, and community spaces for various purposes. From an architect’s and urbanist’s eye, it’s fascinating to observe the scale, functioning, and surprising effectiveness of this pop-up “tented city”.
What to See and Do
Salvation or not, a dip in the sangam is the highlight of the Kumbh Mela and best done by boat since these skip the crowds that throng the ghats. They dock close to the confluence, along a sandbar in the midst of the river, and allow for a relatively peaceful bathing experience. Priests and any required paraphernalia are both easily available at hand, and lifejackets are thankfully mandatory when onboard.
Images of mystical sadhus have become symbolic of the Kumbh, and for good reasons too. These holy men are the lifeblood of the festival and broadly come from 13 akharas – monastic institutions that serve as the custodians of Hinduism. Their campsites are the beating heart of the Mela’s grounds, forming spaces for devotion, meetings, service, and rest. Wander through the akharas to participate in the aartis and meet the sadhus. Ask a question or two to go beyond the spectacle of their ash-smeared bodies and garlands of rudraksha – their responses might surprise you.
A welcome addition to the Mela is the Digital Maha Kumbh Experience Centre, a cutting-edge 60,000-square-foot exhibition that tells the story of the Kumbh with an enticing array of projections, lasers, holograms, and kinetics. There are stylized drawings from mythology, touch-panels that stimulate gushing rivers, and large panoramic screens that recreate the feeling of being at the ghats, with – like it or not – cut-outs of boats for selfies included.
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Where to Stay
jüSTa Shivir Jhusi
A tranquil campsite right by the banks of the Ganges and surrounded by mustard fields, jüSTa Shivir’s bucolic retreat is just a few kilometres downstream from the sangam, yet a world away from the sensory overload of the Kumbh. The luxury tents pitched across a sprawling 20-acre campsite are 900-square-foot each, complete with indoor and outdoor sit-outs, a work desk, and a dedicated dressing area with ensuite bathroom. The family suite tents have an additional private room for another two adults or children. All tents are draped with block-printed fabrics, furnished with wooden furniture, and equipped with heaters – much needed for Prayagraj’s chilly night temperatures.
Best suited for those who seek to be in the midst of all action, this premium accommodation is situated right within Juna Akhara’s premises. The 35-ensuite tents are comfortably furnished and allow guests to interact closely with the akhara’s community of sadhus and volunteers from dawn to dusk. Spiritual fervour rings through the air with daily aartis and yagyas, sattvic meals offered in the communal dining space, and passionate discussions with the head saints. The campsite and its environs provide an immersive experience for all five senses, while allowing guests to retire into their tents to take it all in.
Glamping would be an apt description for the 40 tents in this compact hill-top campsite with distant views of the akharas and with the bustle of the Kumbh within earshot. The 420-squre-foot luxury tents are home to chic, vintage-style furniture reminiscent of outdoor camping. Layered with the choicest of upholstery – think patterned cushions, woven dhurries, and colourful throws - the tents are not only stylish but also come with shared butler services. Camp facilities include a communal annexe tent with baithak-style seating and Swadhya – a spa for much-needed relaxation after a day spent walking across the Mela’s grounds.
With a show-stopper frontage, Badi Kothi is a centuries-old haveli-style mansion with gripping ties to history from the reign of Akbar to the rule of the English and the fight for independence. Sandstone carvings, arched windows, and projecting balconies cover every inch of the façade. Internally, the 21 guest rooms are centred around an intimate courtyard and cascading terraces. Period details abound, from the antique furniture and four-poster beds to intricate pietra dura work, gramophones, and archival photographs. Choose from rooms that have hosted the likes of Mirabai, Rabindranath Tagore, Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru, and Lal Bahadur Shastri.
Tips to Make the Most of Your Visit
The upcoming Shahi Snan dates of 29th Jan along with 03rd, 12th and 26th Feb are considered auspicious, but they also draw the most crowds and are best avoided. Ten lost-and-found centres across the Kumbh Mela grounds use AI-powered technology to locate missing persons; and visitors can head to the nearest one in case they get separated from their companions.
Dress in layers. Evening and night temperatures tend to be quite chilly, while it stays pleasant to warm during the day. Avoid carrying expensive belongings when roaming the grounds and wear slip-on footwear to easily enter the akharas and meet the holy men. Except during their prayer times, the sadhus are by and large happy to meet visitors, offer their blessings, and pose for photographs. Always read the room, though, and offer a nominal donation as a token of respect.
Lastly, one would do well to remember that the Kumbh is a melting point of cultures and traditions, people and practices. Some that would be familiar and others not much so. Visit with an open mind. Because while films of yore may have popularised the narrative of getting-lost-at-the-Kumbh, you are more likely to find something deep inside instead.
